i know

5.25.07 later

You're really all tired of me by now. But what else is there for me to do as I sit with my coffee at the Le Bar Balto looking down the Rue Montmartre at the cafe where the pacifist Jean Jaures was assassinated in the summer of 1914. The table is still there, with the bloodstain that never came off. The seats are all in the sun, so I elected shade at the Balto over history. Oh, it was hard to get out of bed this morning, and my feet are sore, but after covering most of the first arrondisement of Paris yesterday, I'd like to finish the first and get through the second arrondissement today . . . Ambitious task. First, the Tuileries garden, peaceful and cool in the early morning sun. Then the Place Vendome, one of the most perfect examples of classical architecture. Okay, so it was the "Palace" of Justice I was talking about on the Ile de la Cite; the "ministry" of justice seems to be on the Place Vendome. Then a walk down Rue St-Honore, thinking of all those poor people travelling in a cart down this street to the guillotine during the Revolution. A stop at a bakery for a sandwich of country ham with sharp mustard and salad, a grocery store for a liter and a half of water (this time it will be enough) and then to Les Halles gardens to enjoy a quiet lunch. Well, it was supposed to be quiet: two ladies with a tiny baby sat down on the other side of the bench (the benches are mostly two-sided). Apparently, baby was not happy with lunch, because shortly thereafter he let out a loud wail and would not stop for 10 minutes. But as I said before the French ar polite. As soon as the wails subsided to a level where the spoken word could be heard, "maman" turned to me and said "I do hope the baby has not disturbed you.". What could I say? "Not at all!" and on my way I went. The medieval tower of John Without Fear, the duke of Burgundy, who had his rival and cousin Louis Duke of Orleans brother of Charles the Mad (well, not all of the time) assassinated, and who had to build the tower to protect himself from the same fate, was an enlightening visit, with its restored and almost modern in its comforts toilet. A brief stop at the Stohrer bakery of classic tradition for a "cake aux fruits," one of my favorite pastries. It may make it home with me on Sunday. A stroll through the lanes where in medieval times thieves, cutthroats and prostitutes made their homes - the prostitutes are still there but I rated only one invitation; I'm not missing anything and my throat is still in one piece so I missed the thieves and cutthroats. Now on to the stock exchange for the other sort of thieves, cutthroats and prostitutes.