cool and quiet

5.26.07

Napoleon built the stock exchange, surrounded on all sides by huge Corinthian columns. I have to admit it is more impressive, possibly even oppressive, than the NYSE. Exhaustion set in, so I headed for the Metro and back to the hotel. The skies were darkening rapidly and I no sooner set foot in my room than some huge thunderstorms blew through. A couple of hours later (and about 20 degrees cooler) the rains stopped and I went out looking for dinner. I just walked into a place off the street and walked right into one of the better meals I've had in my life. Some "batons de courgette" (tempura-fried zucchini) lightly sprinkled with coarse sea salt to start with. A "gratin de blettes" (a casserole of chard topped with a bechamel amd parmigiano, popped under the broiler to brown) with a nice dry but fruity white wine from Cassis near Marseilles. Then a "brandade nimoise" (salt cod whipped with cream and garlic and eaten with toasted baguette) with more of the wine. Finally a sable (a type of barely sweetened whole grain shortbread) topped with a little pistachio-flavored pastry cream and showered with tiny little strawberries "from the woods," raspberries and blackberries. And of course coffee to round it all out. Three hours of marvellously prepared food with exactly the right wine. This morning is cloudy and cool, with a nice breeze. I have wandered around in the Faubourg Saint Germain, the River Oaks of Paris, but on a completely different scale. I walked by a beautiful chocolate shop, where little boxes of about ten chocolates are being sold, in exquisite boxes, for about $90 a box. The shops are incredible and the merchandise incredibly expensive, definitely for looking only. I will sit for a little longer in this little jewel of a park before heading back to the hotel to get ready for tonight.